To Trim Or Not To Trim

One of the most frequent questions I get from clients is how often they should trim their hair or if they should trim their hair at all. First, let me start by saying that trimming your ends is important in retention of length. Most people average about a 1/4 inch of regrowth per month. If damaged/split ends are not trimmed, the hair will continue to split up the hair shaft causing the need for more hair to be cut then was probably initially needed. Typically ends should be trimmed every six to eight weeks(your schedule may vary with your hair type). To ensure the need for less trims it is important to take special care when handling your hair especially the ends. Don't rely on products that claim to "heal" split ends. They can seal the split end to help it look healthier, but they aren't reversing the damage. These products can however help prevent future damage to otherwise healthy hair.

 Some of the ways to minimize damage are to:

1. Make sure you are using a moisturizing shampoo/cleanser and conditioner

2. Detangle hair during the conditioning process for less stress on hair

3. Use a good leave in conditioner

4. When using heat tools always use a heat protectant

While there is no full proof way to prevent split ends these tips should help minimize them

Are Extensions To Blame?

By now pretty much everyone has seen the  recent photos of super model Naomi Campbell and what appears to be her non existent hairline. Many have began weighing in on what they believe is the cause of this and most seem to share the opinion that long term extension wearing is the culprit. In my opinion saying extensions are to blame is an easy scapegoat. I do not believe that the extensions are to blame but that the process is. I have several clients that have worn extensions over an extended period of time and have not experienced any hair loss. In fact, they have experienced the opposite, hair growth. Now,while I have seen people who suffer from traction alopecia, it is often times as a result of too much tension ( i.e hair being braided too tight, etc ) being put on the hair while trying to achieve the desired style. There is no way to really know whether Naomi's receding hairline is simply genetics or due to extensions and wigs. It is however probably safe to say, if you have to take a tylenol before or after a hair appointment you probably want to rethink that particular service and/or stylist. All in all extensions are not the enemy, lack of education about how to properly install them is.

The Truth About Co- Washing

To my delight many women have began to embrace their natural hair, so much that it has become a trend. The internet is flooded with hair videos and tutorials for almost everything regarding natural hair. While these videos could serve as a valuable resource in some aspects, many times I have found amateurs giving what they consider professional opinions and misinformation while using incorrect and sometimes non-existent hair terminology.

 As a licensed hair professional and natural sister myself, I think it is wonderful that women are feeling empowered to rock their God given textures and also want to encourage others to do the same. However, there is a word being thrown around that I take issue with, in fact I like to refer to it as "hair ebonics", that word is "co-wash".  Yes the C word, which I will probably use more times in this blog than I have ever used in my entire career as a hair stylist. Because this word is used so often I know that this may ruffle a few feathers and many may not share my opinion. "Co-wash" is a term used to describe cleansing the hair using conditioner. The reason that this term bothers me so much is because there is actually no way to CLEANSE the hair with conditioner. Conditioner is formulated to do just what it says... condition the hair. Without getting too technical, most conditioners are designed to restore the hair to its natural ph and coat the cuticle of the hair itself. Most conditioners also contain surfactants which don't completely wash out of the hair,but enough of the science behind conditioners. My point is this, conditoners are not capable of removing the buildup on the hair that come from products and the environment therefore it is not really possible to "co-wash" hair. Now, saying that I dont believe it is possible to "co-wash" hair does not mean that I believe using shampoo is the best method to cleanse natural hair. Most shampoos contain detergents and sulfates that strip the hair of its natural oils during the shampooing process. Because this process can be harsh on the hair (especially natural hair), I recommend using cleansing conditioners. I know what you're thinking... What's the difference?!? A cleansing conditioner is formulated to remove dirt and buildup without using harsh detergents and sulfates while also conditioning and moisturizing the hair. Two of my favorite cleansing conditioners are WEN and Deva Curl Nopoo. These two products get the results that I'm sure many naturalistas are looking for, but are specifically designed for the purpose of cleansing and conditioning the hair.